3 hour surf

Well I had a three hour surf this morning, first in a long time. Going to be stiff tomorrow! The first 3/4 of an hour at Millers was the best, only 3 guys out and plenty of waves for everyone.

Then the hoards arrived and the swell dropped. Was going to get out after about 2 hours, but then the hoards thinned and the swell jacked.

Eventually had to get out because I was so stuffed I could hardly paddle. What a way to start the day!